Starting your plants from seeds is significantly more cost effective than buying starts from the nursery year after year. Yes, there are initial set-up costs, which completely vary based on how elaborate a system you want to create to start seeds, but after that, it really is just the cost of a packet of seeds. Moreover, most gardens don’t require using the entire packet of seeds each season, and with the proper storage, you can save seeds from year to year {or save your own} with even deeper savings.
Seeds
First, you need to acquire yourself some seeds. I personally use Botanical Interests seeds, simply because I have found they have a great selection, they produce really hardy plants, and I have met the owners personally and feel they have deep ethical values with regards to the quality of their seeds. There are several companies like them, I am sure, they are just my personal preference. Start by ordering seed catalogs {or browsing online catalogs}. Make a list of everything you want to grow and research the varieties. This is your chance to grow heirlooms that you would never find in your grocery store. Pay special attention to their growing requirements, though, to make sure they will work well in your region. RESIST the temptation to go nuts ordering. Order what you need, make a note of what you’d like to try in the future. Sign up for their emails and special offers, because at some point during the season, most seed companies will offer free shipping. You can also buddy up with a friend to hit their standard free shipping minimums.
Grow LightsOkay, I know I’ve kind of beat a dead horse here {that is a really kind of morbid saying, now that I think about it}, BUT, seriously, seriously, seriously consider grow lights if you plan on starting your plants from seeds. You don’t have to get a fancy schmancy ones like I have, though they have more than paid for themselves. You can start with a small can light with a grow bulb that you can purchase at Home Depot {or the like} and see the difference for yourself. I really believe that this is the reason a lot of plants fail when starting from seed–there just isn’t adequate light {in most cases} to start some plants on window sills. They end up all spindly, and never really produce as well.
Containers
You can save containers from nursery purchases from previous years and use those {just make sure to get them a diluted bleach/water rinse first}, use yogurt containers, use purchases grow trays, peet pots, or make your own seedling pots. It really doesn’t matter, just so long as they have proper drainage. Poke holes in any containers that don’t have drainage already. If you start super early, you’ll want to transplant your seedlings indoors to bigger pots once before you transplant them outside {this is particularly true of slow growers like tomatoes and peppers}. Have the larger sized containers on hand and ready to go.
When to start seeds
The seed packets will give you a “days to maturity” estimate. In my experience, you want to tack on extra days to that, because it always takes a little longer. Also, that days to maturity really should start about the time you transplant them outside. The stress of transplanting usually sets them back a bit. If you directly sow, you can start your day count when you see green poke through the ground. I typically follow those basic rules of thumb for my planning–sometimes, I get lucky and get a crop earlier than expected, but I do it mostly to avoid running out of the proper kind of weather for the plant to finish maturing.
Take notes
Really nerd out during the seed starting process. You think you’ll remember which plants liked water, heat, or did better with this or that. You won’t. Take notes, so that next year, you don’t have to learn the lessons again.
Check your plants a couple of times a day
Some plants suck water, and some containers do not hold water. Checking your plants multiple times a day allows you to monitor their watering needs. Of course, you don’t want to keep them drenched, but in general, if you push your finger into the dirt up to the nail bed and it is dry, it’s time for a drinky-drink {even if that does mean twice a day on occasion}.
Harden off your plantsThere is no sense in babying your little seedlings all the way to the point of them being ready to plant only to kill them in the transplanting process. Seedlings started indoors are used to being pampered. The spring breezes, fluctuations in temperature, and soil change will stress. them. out. It’s best to get them acclimated the best you can by hardening them off. It’s like toughening up your kids, only your plants won’t talk back.
Those are the down and dirty basics that I can think of for any of you toying with the idea of starting your garden from seed this year. Any of YOU have any more quick tips?
~Mavis
Mrs. C. says
I store my seeds in the freezer. Sometimes old ones will still sprout! What I do with old seeds is dampen a piece of paper towel, put it on a small plate, and put a few seeds within the folds. If a good percentage of them sprout, I will sow them. If not, I dump them.
One of the things I’ve learned with heavy feeders like tomatoes, peppers, and artichokes is to start feeding the seedlings with a diluted fish emulsion once they have their first-second set of true leaves. I start of with a quarter dilution, and move up to a half. By the time I put the heavy feeders out, they are getting a full strength mix. I feed every 1-2 weeks, depending upon how fast the plants are growing.
Don’t use regular old dirt to start your seeds, especially tomatoes, peppers, and other plants that easily get diseases. If you do, look for instructions on the internet about sterilizing the soil in your oven. Seriously.
Some plants, like artichokes, tomatoes, peppers, rosemary, etc., will have to be transplanted a few times into increasingly larger pots before you ever put them out in the garden. Plan ahead and get organized before you need things so that your plants don’t suffer.
Do not rely on HH to water your plants. They may forget or drown them.
Be patient with yourself. A lot of gardening is trial and error. Your tomato seedlings died? Go to the garden center and pick up a few plants and get them in the ground. I’ve had to do that and I was glad I did.
Amber says
Could you talk about the need to thin starts? I learned that the hard way one year where everything planted too close together stayed small and spindly.
Diane says
Because of the small size of (and smallish patches of sun in) my garden, I buy starts instead of seeds for the vegies I can only grow a few of – 4 or 5 each of tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. Seeds are generally only viable for 2-3 years, so I would never be able to use up the seeds in a packet before I had to buy more to ensure they would germinate. Since the heirloom varieties I grow from starts are usually REALLY expensive in stores, if you can get them at all, I figure it’s worth spending more for a healthy start which will produce pounds and pounds of tomatoes, for instance, that I would pay $3.99 a pound for at New Seasons.
That said, the ideal strategy would be to find a friend or neighbor to share the seeds with if you didn’t have room to grow more than a few plants to maturity. Then starting everything you can from seed makes perfect sense.
Tisha says
One thing I would add is air movement. Once sprouted either point a gentle fan on them, put them in a room with a ceiling fan (that is turned on) or at the very least, brush your hands over the seedlings periodically to help strengthen the stems. This is vital for people whose spring breezes are made up of gusty winds going 30-60 mph.
suzanne says
I’ve been “winter sowing” the last 4 years. That’s where you cut a milk carton almost in half keeping a hinge attached at the handle. Add potting soil, seed and duck-tape it closed. You keep the cartons outside like a little greenhouse. It has worked almost to well for me (hello 21 spaghetti squash). For some reason damping off is not an issue and they acclimate quite quickly.
Lissa says
I miss Francisco….Won’t he visit you at your new house? It’s been so long since he’s been on the blog!
Lilian says
I have really good luck germinating my seeds set on top of the refrigerator. The slight heat from the fridge keeps it slightly warmer there and is the perfect temperature for good germination rates.
Mary Webb says
Found some great ideas on my garden here. Definitely a great and very useful post, I’m recommending it to some friends. My sister will be very glad to have your tips too. Thank you for sharing! Happy gardening!