How to Start Seeds Using Grow Lights

Yesterday I planted my tomato seeds {11 different varieties} and thought I would share some pictures today of how I use grow lights to help my plants along. Even though I’ve done some winter gardening this year, starting my tomato seeds is like the kick-off to the gardening season.  Even when it’s nasty outside, the little seedlings are hope that spring is right around the corner–the 3 month corner.

I plant my seeds in plastic pots filled with  miracle grow seed starting mix and sometimes Jiffy Peat Pellets.  Typically it’s whatever I have on hand at the time. Don’t be tempted to use potting soil or garden soil.  Seeds need a really light airy environment to germinate, so a seed starting mix is essential.  I have three 4ft grow light systems, so I can have up to 6 flats going at any time.  I’ve tried using natural light to get them started with really unpredictable levels of success, so for me, the grow lights were totally worth the purchase.

When I use trays of starting mix, as opposed to individual pods, I usually start by putting the mix in the trays {leaving the mixture about 1/4-1/2″ from the top of the tray} and watering it in.  Once the dirt is evenly moist {which you will need to keep it that way for the duration of the planting–not soggy, not dry, just evenly moist.  It’s a delicate balance that really isn’t that hard once you get the hang of it}, I start placing my seeds.

I usually put a couple of seeds in each spot, just to ensure germination, and then thin them out later.  Plant each seed per the instructions on the packet {depth and spacing for indoor starting is usually provided on the seed packet}.

Tomatoes actually like a bit of heat {soil temperature between 65-70 degrees is ideal}, so covering them with either the plastic dome that comes with the flats or plastic wrap for the first little bit can help provide humidity and traps a little heat, but make sure to provide some ventilation.   Once the seeds have germinated, remove the covering completely, or they will become susceptible to mildew and all sort of seedling killers.

Keep the grow light about 6″ from the top of the seedlings {or the potting mix until they germinate} at all times.  The plants need a light and dark cycle, though, just as they would have in nature, so turn the lights off before you go to bed and then flip them back on in the morning {or get yourself a fancy dancy timer}.  As the seedlings grow, lift the light accordingly.  Once the seedlings have germinated, you can use a VERY weak and diluted mixture of fertilizer and water, if you want, but I don’t really think it is necessary, and typically just continue with water.

Once your plants have set their first two sets of true leaves it’s time to transplant them into bigger pots{the first leaves the seedling get aren’t real and will kind of wilt away before the seedling gets its first real bonafide leaves}.  You can use leftover pots that you have from your annuals from the nursery {just wash them with a diluted bleach mixture first}, or newspaper pots, or peet pots.  Whichever you prefer.  This time, you can pot them with a transplant mix or potting soil.  When you scoop them out and place them into their new home, take special care with the root system.  If anything is going to tick off the plant, it is damaging the roots.

Then, place the repotted plants back under the grow lights, with the standard 6″ of space between the top of the leaves and the grow light until you are ready to plant them outside.  Remember to harden off your plants before you move them outdoors permanently, though.

Here’s to kicking off the 2014 gardening season.  Wahoo!

~Mavis