I became distracted in the garden this afternoon and all the sudden I found myself with a shovel. Towards the end of this summer, several of the tomato plants in our garden boxes had blight. I know all about crop rotation, but these garden boxes sit in the sunniest location in our backyard. It’s the perfect spot for growing tomatoes. So I had this great idea. What if I move all of the soil out of the garden boxes and replace it with new stuff {which would be full of rich compost}.
Would I be able to grow my tomatoes in the same spot next year?
I figured I needed your input on this, so I stopped digging.
So what do you think? If I replace the soil and scrub down the garden boxes, can I grow tomatoes in the same spot again next year?
~Mavis
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Erica / Northwest Edible Life says
Sure, but it’ll probably be easier to just plant thru clean plastic mulch. Generally these things are spread through spores splashing up from the soil onto the leaves, and a plastic mulch acts as a sort of barrier against that. Yeah just like a blight condom.
Mavis says
Hmmm… Interesting. Thanks for the tip. 🙂
M says
Red plastic mulch (basically, red plastic sheeting), is supposed to increase tomato production. I saw that over at Gardeners Supply catalog.
indio says
I agree with other commenters about preventing blight, though it can be airborne and can come from nearby veggie gardens that are contaminated.
I’d also recommend not stepping on the soil because it compresses. You don’t look as if you have a lot of gravitational pull but any weight compacts the soil and makes it harder for roots to grow. If you replace the soil this won’t be a problem. Keep in mind that tomatoes grow very deep roots so you will ned to do a lot of digging out beyond just the sides of your raised beds. Also when replacing soil make sure you test it for N P K ratios and pH. This way you will get a huge yield per plant.
Kathy says
Yes change the soil but also bleach the wood. And remember, blight is spread through touch, so wash your hands/gardening gloves. Also don’t compost the plants with blight, it’ll just add to your problem. Burn ’em or bag ’em in heavy garbage bags with the rest of the trash.
Save your egg shells. Pulverize them to an almost powder and use when planting. Also powder milk when planting. Sprinkle around plant during growing season as well. My step dad was a tomato freak and used to plant at lest 3 acres of all kinds of tomatoes and did this…he didn’t seem to have a problem with early or late blight.
Lorri says
I guess I will have to be the voice of doom here. When I got late tomato blight a local Master Gardener recommended that I not plant tomatoes in that area for at least 4 years. He said that it would be almost impossible to kill every spore even with bleach and replacing soil. So I created a new area in another more public part of my yard for the next 5 years. I thought I would get raised eyebrow type comments about tomato plants being in my front yard but people were pretty cool and just admired them and asked growing advice. Last season I put some tomato plants back in my regular garden and all was well. Did I need to take his advice…I don’t know. But it worked.
Madam Chow says
There is also the black plastic/copper wire technique: http://www.ehow.com/how_8071230_stop-tomato-blight-copper-wire.html
Mavis says
Thanks Madam Chow. 🙂
Sandy says
My farmer husband says that yes you can change the soi and this should work.
Lynne says
May I ask Mavis and all the smart people on this blog a question about my garden? The spot I’ve had my small suburban garden on the south shore of Long Island, NY spent 12 hours or so under about 5 feet of sea water, courtesy of Superstorm Sandy. Do you think I will be able to use that space again for my garden come spring? Anything I should do now that might enable me to use it come spring? Thanks!
Roo says
I’m not incredibly helpful here, but I thought I’d mention that my friend’s sister in law grew a garden ON THE BEACH. I can’t imagine that it hadn’t been under salt water at some recent point. I do know that she kind of used pockets of soil in the sand. I’m just thinking that if there’s nothing else you can do, you may not have to replace all the soil? Dunno. It’s a thought, though, in your search for an answer. I’m glad *you* are ok and I hope the garden works out!
Lynne says
Thanks for the encouragment. I’ll plan to dig in some new soil and amendments, and the idea of fresh soil pockets right around the plants is excellent. It will be an interesting spring beyond my vegetable garden, watching to see what shrubs and flowers come back and what needs to be replaced out there (in fresh soil pockets, of course).
Lisa says
Lynne, The salt water shouldn’t permanently change the structure of the soil. With any luck the Winter rain (I know you don’t want any more) should wash the salt through the soil. It will also help to mix in a good quantity of organic compost in the Spring. The plants will tolerate a high level of salt in the soil and by Spring the salt level should be low enough that it won’t cause a problem.
Lisa says
Any kind of blight is pretty much a given in the Northwest (especially when we have a June like we had this year). Here are a few things to remember:
1) if you take all of the soil out don’t just replace it with straight compost. You need something with structure to it. An actual soil product (that isn’t top soil) is a good base. Mix it 1/2 n 1/2 with an organic compost.
2) don’t refill the bed with Miracle Grow potting soil. Use a soil blend that is organic. I know I tote the benefits of organics more than the average bear, but it is because it works. There are beneficial bits in organics that give the soil a natural immunity to pests and disease. The MG stuff isn’t organic and it’s like giving your plants Fruit Loops for breakfast instead of eggs and whole wheat toast. They’ll feel great at first, but then crash and burn quickly.
3) You live in the Northwest. Blight is normal. I said that, but it bears repeating. If you have a healthy soil base the plants will be able to withstand the blight and still produce. I get blight every year. It could be a brand new bed with brand new soil and I’ll still get it. I still get a good crop from heirloom tomato plants that grow 8′ tall.